“What is most beautiful in virile men is something feminine; what is most beautiful in feminine women is something masculine,” said Susan Sontag in the Spring/Summer edition of Love magazine. The running theme throughout the edition is androgyny; something which seems hard to escape within the fashion industry at the minute. From the catwalks to glossy front pages, are the lines blurring further and further when it comes to what differentiates the male and female gender?
Love’s front cover features Kate Moss (never one to shy away from a little controversy) and Brazilian model, Lea T engaging in what appears to be a passionate same sex kiss. What I didn’t recognize upon first glance is that Lea is in fact, what the fashion industry has dubbed as the ‘fashion world’s first transsexual.’
Without a doubt, the increasing acceptance of androgyny in the fashion industry caused a stir throughout London Fashion Week and across the globe. Whilst I may have been stunned to discover Lea is a transsexual, and also that 19 year old Serbian/Australian model Andrej Pejic is actually male, I can’t help but wonder if it’s just another tactic to shock and surprise the general public? After all, the fickle fashion industry thrives year after year through their tried and tested means of fads, trends and general shock tactics.
Many within the fashion circle argue that using a male to showcase female clothing is wrong; simply due to the fact that the proportions are completely unachievable and unrealistic for any woman to ever be able to strive to. Yes, the clothes may look/hang better on these male mannequins; but if no female can ever hope to even squeeze into the impossibly tiny sample sizes, where lies the point in the garments being designed and produced in the first place? After all, are the designers designing women’s clothes for women or women’s clothes for men?
Telegraph journalist Hilary Alexander interviewed Andrej backstage at Jean Paul Gaultier’s show at Paris Fashion Week. “Andrej is obviously beautiful and he has the most amazing figure. When you consider that a lot of designers are designing for this impossible ideal for someone who is 5ft 11in, no hips and no chest." She goes onto suggest the fascination with the androgynous male model might be a reflection of the times. "It's not just a fashion thing. People are more accepting of transgender personalities, civil marriage and gay couples adopting. It's only natural that a transgender person would appear on a catwalk modeling both menswear and womenswear."
Speaking purely in terms of the gender issue at hand, I personally have no issue with men dressing as women and vice versa, I would even go as far to say Lea and Andrej look better in the lavish designer garments than I could ever hope to! However, another topic which people are divided over is that whilst most female models that reach 6.1ft+ are not normally picked for the catwalk, 6.2ft Andrej sashayed down the catwalk on countless occasions during London Fashion Week. Does it seem fair to make one rule for women and another for men who are portrayed as women?
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Spring/Summer 2011 Love Issue |
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Andrej Pejic (left) in a recent Marc Jacobs campaign |
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Andrej Pejic (right) in Jean Paul Gaultier campaign |
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Androgynous model Andrej Pejic
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